After gleaning inspiration from previous documented attempts I drew up my own Sketch-up model and set out to create the locket. After about 40 hours of careful sanding, turning, filing and chisseling I ended up with the locket you see above.
Materials Strip of 4mm thick oak Strip of 3mm thick oak 5mm brass stock 1mm drill bit Silver coated wire Household staples Resin and dye Neodymium magnets, 4x 2mm dia and 4x 1mm dia Tools Metal turning lathe Chisel Wood saw files abrasive paper glue drill press rotary tool 1. So my first step was to create a template for my design in sketchup. I then printed a template from my sketch-up file using a standard inkjet printer.
Make sure to cut out the right pieces. You need two left hand pieces and two right hand pieces. The templates where cut out using a knife and where then stuck to my strips of wood using standard PVA wood glue. The holes for my split hinge were then drilled out using progressively larger drill bits ranging from mm. You should now have two strips of wood with a template glued to the top and holes in the front portion.
The pieces can now be separated with the help of a saw. I used an MDF block as a guide when cutting. Cut as close to the line as possible, any excess can be sanded away using the method illustrated above. Take care to sand right down to the line. The locket has two pivoting points. For the swivelling action the holes are drilled using a pillar drill before cutting.
This step involves gouging the slot for the pivot which transforms the locket from an oval shape into a heart. The slot is cut in the 4mm thick pieces using a chisel. I ground the chisel from a piece of HSS steel. The chisel was ground to a 1mm thickness and the slot was coughed starting from the centre and gouging outwards to a depth of 1mm.
Once the slot for the drill bit is gouged the profile of the locket was cut using a coping saw. Unfortunately i dont have any documentation of making the split hinge, however it was turned on a lathe from brass. The hinge consists of four pieces of brass as can be seen in the picture above. A butterfly pattern was drawn on using a pencil and then gouged out using a scalpel and small chisel.
The pockets where filled with epoxy mixed with talkum powder and white paint to create imitation ivory. Using a syringe the pockets where filled and left to dry. The locket was again sanded to create a smooth finish. Holes where also last drilled along the edges into which, neodymium magnets where inserted for the locket to line up correctly once assembled.
A loop was attached to one half to allow the locket to be attached to a chain. Hi friend, where it's possible buy the split hinge that you used in your locket?? Can you post a link?? I can't complete my locket. I'm having trouble opening up the skp file. I don't have sketch up and am unable to get it. Is there any other way to open it or have it changed to something that could be opened?
Thank you. I bought a locket with this exact design! Okay thanks so much for doing this! If for no other reason, then I was completely infatuated with this little locket, and I could not understand how they could have made a real one for the movie, which they didn't of course, and it has actually wasted some of my time.
My biggest issue was the hinge, and I see that splitting the hinge is the trick. Something I was wondering is would it be possible or reasonable to put magnets into the hinge pieces themselves? Hi there! Sorry, I don't mean to be a bother, but could i maybe get some closer or maybe more detailed pictures about the split pin and how it's incorporated into the locket? Thank you! Reply 5 years ago. The oak was cut thin on a table saw. Pick one that'll look good and has a nice grain.
I used walnut. Attachments Illusionist locket. Laser: Load the design files into whatever software package you are using, or use the included 2d editor to draw the parts. Place a layer in the laser, setting what ever you need to set and make a test cut. Try reduce the amount of burning to the wood, it just makes cleaning the burn marks easier.
When you're happy, cut out all the wooden parts. I speak from experience :P Now repeat with the acrylic design. Yes, it is bright Scroll saw: Mount the printouts on the wooden layers Carefully cut out each layer. Be patient!! Don't press on the blade too hard and keep a good hold of the work.
Clean up any rough edges with medium sandpaper Repeat with the acrylic this time. Be carefull with the acrylic and take it nice and handy. If your fit is just a little bit off, don't use the saw to fix it!! Using a scalpel, cut though on layer 3 where the lines are. Watch you finger here too The first thing I did was to assemble the front and back sections.
Before any glue was applied, I gave all the edges to be glued a very light sanding with fine sandpaper to remove any burrs or carbon left from the laser. Do a dry fit just to make sure it all fits. Keep repeating the process until the two parts of the front and the back are assembled. Try not to mix them up. Take the fine brazing rod and bend it into a U shape with two longish legs.. Next, bend the legs of the U down more than 90 degrees. This give the loop extra purchase in the wood and make's it much harder to it to be pulled out.
Mark the position for the holes in the third layer of the upper portion top right and drill with the right size bit at the correct angle. Now carve out a channel from the hole's to edge of the wood for the loop to sit in.
Sit the loop in the wood, making any adjustments necessary. Starting with layer 3, Score along the line of the pin, carving a small channel for the pin to sit in. You can use the small drill bit to help carve out the small recess for the ball.
Use the scalpel to give it a good round shape. Take the pin and bend it where it need to be bent, then snip off what ever is excess. Place the correct layer 2 piece their respective layer 3 pieces and mark where the small channel is on the layer two parts. Repeat 1 and 2 until the pin can sit in it correct position and the layers can sit complete flat on one another.
Try to keep the pin as tight as possible. You can glue layer 2 and 3 on the ball side , making sure not to glue the ball itself. For this step, ideally you have access to a wood lathe or even a drill. Lathe: Place a small length of dowel in the lathe, making sure it's well attached and the tool rest is in the correct position. Turn on the lathe and reduce a mm section of dowel to 7mm diameter. At the centre of this section, mark a line and then reduce one side to 5mm diameter.
Remove from the lathe and remove the excess above the 5mm end only!!!! If you cut the 7 mm end too, the next step'll be really fiddly and hard. Also make sure you have at least 6mm of 5mm dowel lefts. Drill : Place the small length of dowel in the drill and tighten the chuck up well. Now reduce the last mm or so to 5mm diameter.
Splitting the pin same for drill and lathe : Place the reduced dowel in a vice. Using a fine fret saw or scalpel, cut straight down the middle so that both halves are equal. Be patient and line it up well. Once you've cut down through the 7mm section,cut the top top part off so that you have a layer thickness of 7mm dowel and 2 thicknesses of 5mm. Verify that the split pins fit in their space in the locket and that they can rotate the whole way around when the locket is in the heart configuration.
When you are happy with the fit, mark where the 5mm section where the layer 2 surface is. Don't cut yet. I'd seen magnets used in one or two of the lockets online, so I decided to put some into mine. I have placed a pair in the split pin, some around the rotating pin, in the side of the lid and between the lids and the adjoining layer.
Carefully mark where the first magnet should go. When you are happy with your marking, sure the small drill bit 1mm to create the recess. The hole should make a tight fit with the magnet. Mark where the corresponding magnet hole should go. This need to be precise as if they are misaligned, the magnets could pull your locket off angle. Now the finicky part.
Glue one magnet into it's recess, keeping it parallel to the axis of the layers and let it dry The allow another magnet to attach to it to determine the polarity. Mark the unattracted end and make sure that this end is the one that goes into the recess. If these magnets have to mate with other magnets, repeat the procedure. Repeat the process till you have all the magnets you want in.
You want to be really careful about the polarity because once those magnets are in, they aren't going to come out again. If one does go in the wrong way, you don't have much choice but to carve out a plug of wood to excavate it, and fill the void with filler.
Leave a 2mm rectangular peg like that in the CAD drawing. Remove the rest of the material. Carve out the recess and test fit the peg in the slot. The split pin should be able to stay in by itself. Test the assembly in the locket to make sure of the fit. Now glue the lower layer 2 piece to the lower layer 3 piece, making sure that the rotating pin is sitting in it's recess and that all the magnets are lining up.
As the glue dries, rotate the locket to make sure it doesn't get stuck. The magnets give the locket a nice clicky feel and let it stay in either shape. Assemble the locket and test it :D it anything sticks, just sand the offending area. When you are happy with the mechanics of the locket , sand the entire outside of the locket, removing the edges and making the entire body smooth.
Start with a coarse sand paper but quickly move through the grade till you are using a fine paper. Disassemble the locket and crack out the varnish!! Do this in a ventilated or open area Work out some way of mounting pieces so that all their surfaces can be varnished. I hung the body of the locket and used " helping hands" to hold the split pin pieces.
For the first layer of varnish, varnish all the surfaces, including the rotating surfaces, just so that everything is sealed. The first layer can take a long time 24h to dry, but successive layers take much less time For subsequent layers, varnish all the external facing surfaces, including the picture recess. You should apply at least layers to get a nice strong protective coating. When all the varnish has dried, and the solvent smell gone, re assemble the locket.
A second ring can be soldered around the loop to take the chain. You can solder this shut for extra strength. Either you or the receiver can place the picture in the locket, just remember that it needs to be split for the mechanism to still work.
Place the locket on a chain, box it , wrap it and give it to whomever you please. Watch the growing delight on their face as they see the locket rotate and the lid slides over to reveal the cavity. Good luck!!! Attachments Locket. Did you make this project?
0コメント